Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2026
Pierpaolo Piccioli made his debut as Balenciaga’s creative director on October 4, 2025, during Paris Fashion Week with the SS26 collection titled “The Heartbeat.” The show took place at Kering’s headquarters on rue de Sèvres in a distinctive womb-like space bathed in hazy orange light, setting an intimate, emotional tone for this pivotal moment in the house’s history.
The Experience
The presentation reflected Piccioli’s emphasis on humanity and shared rhythm. Invitations featured a cassette tape of his own heartbeat, while the soundtrack included emotionally resonant tracks: Sinéad O’Connor’s “In This Heart,” Lauryn Hill’s “Can’t Take My Eyes Off Of You,” and Nina Simone’s “Feeling Good.”
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Design Philosophy & Themes
Bridging Heritage and Modernity
Piccioli’s vision honored founder Cristóbal Balenciaga while acknowledging the work of his predecessors:
- Cristóbal’s Legacy: The collection paid homage through archival references, most notably the 1957 Sack Dress, which symbolized liberation by rejecting cinched waists in favor of volume and air as a “third dimension” between fabric and body
- Demna’s Influence: Subtle nods included exaggerated silhouettes like oversized diamond-encrusted sunglasses
- Ghesquière’s Innovation: Echoes of Nicolas Ghesquière’s fall 2006 egg-shaped coats with large buttons
A New Aesthetic Direction
The collection marked a significant shift from Demna’s gritty streetwear aesthetic to refined elegance, infusing Piccioli’s signature style from Valentino with opulent details including fringe, feathers, and ruched floral appliqués. The result was a softer, more mature aesthetic focused on emotional craftsmanship and timeless, shoppable pieces.
Color Palette & Materials
Colors
The palette evolved throughout the presentation:
- Opening with dominant black, inspired by Cristóbal’s Spanish heritage (bullfighter costumes and mourning gowns)
- Transitioning to vibrant hues: deep violet, neon lime green, primary red, sweet lilac, and blush pink
Materials
Emphasis on lightness and structure featured:
- Gazar fabric: Cristóbal’s signature material used for puffed, sculptural volumes in skirts and gowns
- Textured elements: Adding depth and dimension
- Washed denim: Grounding the collection with casual accessibility
- Silk: Providing fluidity and movement
Key Pieces
Sack Dresses & Silhouettes
Reimagined versions of the iconic 1957 Sack Dress appeared as:
- Black evening gowns without waists, draped minimally
- Supersized and pint-sized iterations exploring proportion
Outerwear
- Egg-shaped coats with tall riding hats (referencing Ghesquière)
- Oversized peacoats in vibrant colors
Gowns & Skirts
- Flowy, textured pieces with fringe, feathers, and floral details
- Finale piece: A strapless blush pink evening gown with a distinctive squid-like shape
Casual Pieces
- T-shirt silhouettes reflecting streetwear heritage
- All-black looks
- Denim paired with platform wedge flip-flops for unexpected modernity
Accessories
- White opera gloves
- Comically large diamond-encrusted sunglasses (à la Demna)
- Revamped leather handbags, including the iconic Le City Bag (originally introduced in 2001 by Ghesquière) in various sizes
Front Row & Celebrity Attendance
The show attracted a star-studded front row, including:
- Meghan Markle (Duchess of Sussex) – making her Paris Fashion Week debut in an all-white Balenciaga outfit
- Anne Hathaway
- Kristin Scott Thomas
- Krit Amnuaydechkorn (PP Krit)
- Lauren Sánchez
- Colman Domingo
- FKA Twigs
- Jodie Turner-Smith
- Rosie Huntington-Whiteley
- Simone Ashley
- Georgina Rodríguez
- Isabelle Huppert
- Ariana Greenblatt
- Laetitia Casta
- Baz Luhrmann
Fashion industry luminaries like Anna Wintour and model Vittoria Ceretti were also present.
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Critical Reception
The collection received widespread praise as a confident reinvention and “palate cleanser” for the house. Critics noted:
- A successful recalibration of Balenciaga’s DNA with empathy, structure, and “immortality potential”
- Highly commercial appeal blending past and present
- Introduction of Piccioli’s rich, ornamented vision while maintaining accessibility
- A thoughtful bridge between couture glamour and modern ease
The debut signaled a new chapter for Balenciaga—one that honors its storied past while embracing a more emotionally resonant, elegantly ornate future under Piccioli’s creative direction.
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